er song could have no ending;
I saw her singing at her work,
And o'er the sickle bending;
I listen'd till I had my fill,
And as I mounted up the hill
The music in my heart I bore
Long after it was heard no more.
Towards the foot of the lake, on the opposite side, which was more barren
than that on which we travelled, was a bare road up a steep hill, which
leads to Glen Finlas, formerly a royal forest. It is a wild and rocky
glen, as we had been told by a person who directed our notice to its
outlet at Loch Achray. The stream which passes through it falls into
that lake near the head. At the end of Loch Voil the vale is wide and
populous--large pastures with many cattle, large tracts of corn. We
walked downwards a little way, and then crossed over to the same road
along which we had travelled from Loch Erne to Callander, being once
again at the entrance of Strath Eyer. It might be about four or five
o'clock in the afternoon; we were ten miles from Callander, exceedingly
tired, and wished heartily for the poor horse and car. Walked up Strath
Eyer, and saw in clear air and sunshine what had been concealed from us
when we travelled before in the mist and rain. We found it less woody
and rich than it had appeared to be, but, with all deductions, a very
sweet valley.
Not far from Loch Lubnaig, though not in view of it, is a long village,
with two or three public-houses, and being in despair of reaching
Callander that night without over-fatigue we resolved to stop at the most
respectable-looking house, and, should it not prove wretched indeed, to
lodge there if there were beds for us: at any rate it was necessary to
take some refreshment. The woman of the house spoke with gentleness and
civility, and had a good countenance, which reconciled me to stay, though
I had been averse to the scheme, dreading the dirt usual in Scotch
public-houses by the way-side. She said she had beds for us, and clean
sheets, and we desired her to prepare them immediately. It was a
two-storied house, light built, though in other respects no better than
the huts, and--as all the slated cottages are--much more uncomfortable in
appearance, except that there was a chimney in the kitchen. At such
places it is fit that travellers should make up their minds to wait at
least an hour longer than the time necessary to prepare whatever meal
they may have ordered, which we, I may truly say, did with most temperate
philosophy.
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