ot a spot of tilled ground was
there to break in upon its pastoral simplicity; the same soft yellow
green spread from the bed of the streamlet to the hill-tops on each side,
and sheep were feeding everywhere. It was more close and simple than the
upper end of the vale of Teviot, the valley being much narrower, and the
hills equally high and not broken into parts, but on each side a long
range. The grass, as we had first seen near Crawfordjohn, had been mown
in the different places of the open ground, where it might chance to be
best; but there was no part of the surface that looked perfectly barren,
as in those tracts.

We saw a single stone house a long way before us, which we conjectured to
be, as it proved, Moss Paul, the inn where we were to bait. The scene,
with this single dwelling, was melancholy and wild, but not dreary,
though there was no tree nor shrub; the small streamlet glittered, the
hills were populous with sheep; but the gentle bending of the valley, and
the correspondent softness in the forms of the hills, were of themselves
enough to delight the eye. At Moss Paul we fed our horse;--several
travellers were drinking whisky. We neither ate nor drank, for we had,
with our usual foresight and frugality in travelling, saved the
cheese-cakes and sandwiches which had been given us by our countrywoman
at Jedburgh the day before. After Moss Paul, we ascended considerably,
then went down other reaches of the valley, much less interesting, stony
and barren. The country afterwards not peculiar, I should think, for I
scarcely remember it.

Arrived at Langholm at about five o'clock. The town, as we approached,
from a hill, looked very pretty, the houses being roofed with blue
slates, and standing close to the river Esk, here a large river, that
scattered its waters wide over a stony channel. The inn neat and
comfortable--exceedingly clean: I could hardly believe we were still in
Scotland.

After tea walked out; crossed a bridge, and saw, at a little distance up
the valley, Langholm House, a villa of the Duke of Buccleuch: it stands
upon a level between the river and a steep hill, which is planted with
wood. Walked a considerable way up the river, but could not go close to
it on account of the Duke's plantations, which are locked up. When they
ended, the vale became less cultivated; the view through the vale towards
the hills very pleasing, though bare and cold.

* * * *