steep crags hung with birches:
it was like a new-discovered country of which we had not dreamed, for in
walking down the lake, owing to the road in that part being carried at a
considerable height on the hill-side, the rocks and the indentings of the
shore had been hidden from us. At this time, those rocks and their
images in the calm water composed one mass, the surfaces of both equally
distinct, except where the water trembled with the motion of our boat.
Having rowed a while under the bold steeps, we launched out further when
the shores were no longer abrupt. We hardly spoke to each other as we
moved along receding from the west, which diffused a solemn animation
over the lake. The sky was cloudless; and everything seemed at rest
except our solitary boat, and the mountain-streams,--seldom heard, and
but faintly. I think I have rarely experienced a more elevated pleasure
than during our short voyage of this night. The good woman had long been
looking out for us, and had prepared everything for our refreshment; and
as soon as we had finished supper, or rather tea, we went to bed.
William, I doubt not, rested well, and, for my part, I slept as soundly
on my chaff bed as ever I have done in childhood after the long day's
playing of a summer's holiday.

* * * * *

_Tuesday_, 13_th_ _September_.--Again a fine morning. I strolled into
the green field in which the house stands while the woman was preparing
breakfast, and at my return found one of her neighbours sitting by the
fire, a feeble paralytic old woman. After having inquired concerning our
journey the day before, she said, 'I have travelled far in my time,' and
told me she had married an English soldier who had been stationed at the
Garrison; they had had many children, who were all dead or in foreign
countries; and she had returned to her native place, where now she had
lived several years, and was more comfortable than she could ever have
expected to be, being very kindly dealt with by all her neighbours.
Pointing to the ferryman and his wife, she said they were accustomed to
give her a day of their labour in digging peats, in common with others,
and in that manner she was provided with fuel, and, by like voluntary
contributions, with other necessaries. While this infirm old woman was
relating her story in a tremulous voice, I could not but think of the
changes of things, and the days of her youth, when the shrill fife,
soun