, as she said, she did not value her
place, and it was no matter. In sounding forth the dispraise of Mr. ---,
I ought not to omit mentioning that the poor woman had great delight in
talking of the excellent qualities of his mother, with whom she had been
a servant, and lived many years. After having interchanged good wishes
we parted with our charitable hostess, who, telling us her name,
entreated us, if ever we came that way again, to inquire for her.
We travelled down the Tummel till it is lost in the Tay, and then, in the
same direction, continued our course along the vale of Tay, which is very
wide for a considerable way, but gradually narrows, and the river, always
a fine stream, assumes more dignity and importance. Two or three miles
before we reached Dunkeld, we observed whole hill-sides, the property of
the Duke of Athol, planted with fir-trees till they are lost among the
rocks near the tops of the hills. In forty or fifty years these
plantations will be very fine, being carried from hill to hill, and not
bounded by a visible artificial fence.
Reached Dunkeld at about three o'clock. It is a pretty, small town, with
a respectable and rather large ruined abbey, which is greatly injured by
being made the nest of a modern Scotch kirk, with sash windows,--very
incongruous with the noble antique tower,--a practice which we afterwards
found is not uncommon in Scotland. Sent for the Duke's gardener after
dinner, and walked with him into the pleasure-grounds, intending to go to
the Falls of the Bran, a mountain stream which here joins the Tay. After
walking some time on a shaven turf under the shade of old trees, by the
side of the Tay, we left the pleasure-grounds, and crossing the river by
a ferry, went up a lane on the hill opposite till we came to a locked
gate by the road-side, through which we entered into another part of the
Duke's pleasure-grounds bordering on the Bran, the glen being for a
considerable way--for aught I know, two miles--thridded by gravel walks.
The walks are quaintly enough intersected, here and there by a baby
garden of fine flowers among the rocks and stones. The waterfall, which
we came to see, warned us by a loud roaring that we must expect it; we
were first, however, conducted into a small apartment, where the gardener
desired us to look at a painting of the figure of Ossian, which, while he
was telling us the story of the young artist who performed the work,
disappeared, parting
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