guide.

Crossed the Garry, and went along a moor without any road but straggling
cart-tracks. Soon began to ascend a high hill, and the ground grew so
rough--road there was none--that we were obliged to walk most of the way.
Ascended to a considerable height, and commanded an extensive prospect
bounded by lofty mountains, and having crossed the top of the fell we
parted with our guide, being in sight of the vale into which we were to
descend, and to pursue upwards till we should come to Loch Rannoch, a
lake, as described to us, bedded in a forest of Scotch pines.

When left to ourselves we sate down on the hillside, and looked with
delight into the deep vale below, which was exceedingly green, not
regularly fenced or cultivated, but the level area scattered over with
bushes and trees, and through that level ground glided a glassy river,
not in serpentine windings, but in direct turnings backwards and
forwards, and then flowed into the head of the Lake of Tummel; but I will
copy a rough sketch which I made while we sate upon the hill, which,
imperfect as it is, will give a better idea of the course of the
river--which I must add is more curious than beautiful--than my
description. The ground must be often overflowed in winter, for the
water seemed to touch the very edge of its banks. At this time the scene
was soft and cheerful, such as invited us downwards, and made us proud of
our adventure.

Coming near to a cluster of huts, we turned thither, a few steps out of
our way, to inquire about the road; these huts were on the hill, placed
side by side, in a figure between a square and a circle, as if for the
sake of mutual shelter, like haystacks in a farmyard--no trees near them.
We called at one of the doors, and three hale, stout men came out, who
could speak very little English, and stared at us with an almost savage
look of wonder. One of them took much pains to set us forward, and went
a considerable way down the hill till we came in sight of the cart road,
which we were to follow; but we had not gone far before we were
disheartened. It was with the greatest difficulty William could lead the
horse and car over the rough stones, and to sit in it was impossible; the
road grew worse and worse, therefore we resolved to turn back, having no
reason to expect anything better, for we had been told that after we
should leave the untracked ground all would be fair before us. We knew
ourselves where we stood to be about