the water I would have given a thousand pounds to have been
sure that we should reach the other side in safety. The tide was rushing
violently in, making a strong eddy with the stream of the loch, so that
the motion of the boat and the noise and foam of the waves terrified him
still more, and we thought it would be impossible to keep him in the
boat, and when we were just far enough from the shore to have been all
drowned he became furious, and, plunging desperately, his hind-legs were
in the water, then, recovering himself, he beat with such force against
the boat-side that we were afraid he should send his feet through. All
the while the men were swearing terrible oaths, and cursing the poor
beast, redoubling their curses when we reached the landing-place, and
whipping him ashore in brutal triumph.

We had only room for half a heartful of joy when we set foot on dry land,
for another ferry was to be crossed five miles further. We had intended
breakfasting at this house if it had been a decent place; but after this
affair we were glad to pay the men off and depart, though I was not well
and needed refreshment. The people made us more easy by assuring us that
we might easily swim the horse over the next ferry. The first mile or
two of our road was over a peat-moss; we then came near to the seashore,
and had beautiful views backwards towards the Island of Mull and
Dunstaffnage Castle, and forward where the sea ran up between the hills.
In this part, on the opposite side of the small bay or elbow of the sea,
was a gentleman's house on a hillside, {155} and a building on the
hill-top which we took for a lighthouse, but were told that it belonged
to the mansion, and was only lighted up on rejoicing days--the laird's
birthday, for instance.

Before we had left the peat-moss to travel close to the sea-shore we
delighted ourselves with looking on a range of green hills, in shape like
those bordering immediately upon the sea, abrupt but not high; they were,
in fact, a continuation of the same; but retiring backwards, and rising
from the black peat-moss. These hills were of a delicate green, uncommon
in Scotland; a foaming rivulet ran down one part, and near it lay two
herdsmen full in the sun, with their dogs, among a troop of black cattle
which were feeding near, and sprinkled over the whole range of hills--a
pastoral scene, to our eyes the more beautiful from knowing what a
delightful prospect it must overlook. We now