nly unvisited, but unseen--to our great regret. The
rain was very heavy; the wind had risen, and both wind and tide were
against us, so that it was hard labour for the boatmen to push us on.
They kept as close to the shore as they could, to be under the wind; but
at the doubling of many of the rocky points the tide was so strong that
it was difficult to get on at all, and I was sometimes afraid that we
should be dashed against the rocks, though I believe, indeed, there was
not much danger.

Came down the same side of the lake under Ben Durinish, and landed at a
ferry-house opposite to Bunawe, where we gave the men a glass of whisky;
but our chief motive for landing was to look about the place, which had a
most wild aspect at that time. It was a low promontory, pushed far into
the water, narrowing the lake exceedingly; in the obscurity occasioned by
the mist and rain it appeared to be an island; it was stained and
weather-beaten, a rocky place, seeming to bear no produce but such as
might be cherished by cold and storms, lichens or the incrustations of
sea rocks. We rowed right across the water to the mouth of the river of
Loch Awe, our boat following the ferry-boat which was conveying the
tinker crew to the other side, whither they were going to lodge, as the
men told us, in some kiln, which they considered as their right and
privilege--a lodging always to be found where there was any arable
land--for every farm has its kiln to dry the corn in: another proof of
the wetness of the climate. The kilns are built of stone, covered in,
and probably as good a shelter as the huts in which these Highland
vagrants were born. They gather sticks or heather for their fire, and,
as they are obstinate beggars, for the men said they would not be denied,
they probably have plenty of food with little other trouble than that of
wandering in search of it, for their smutty faces and tinker equipage
serve chiefly for a passport to a free and careless life. It rained very
heavily, and the wind blew when we crossed the lake, and their boat and
ours went tilting over the high waves. They made a romantic appearance;
three women were of the party; two men rowed them over; the lame fellow
sate at one end of the boat, and his companion at the other, each with an
enormous fishing-rod, which looked very graceful, something like masts to
the boat. When we had landed at the other side we saw them, after having
begged at the ferry-house, strike m