om the
mountain, its warm out-houses in irregular stages one above another on
the side of the hill, the rocks, the stream, and sheltering bay, must at
all times be interesting objects. The household boat lay at anchor,
chained to a rock, which, like the whole border of the lake, was edged
with sea-weed, and some fishing-nets were hung upon poles,--affecting
images, which led our thoughts out to the wide ocean, yet made these
solitudes of the mountains bear the impression of greater safety and more
deep seclusion.

The rain became so heavy that we should certainly have turned back if we
had not felt more than usual courage from the pleasure we had enjoyed,
which raised hope where none was. There were some houses a little higher
up, and we determined to go thither and make further inquiries. We could
now hardly see to the other side of the lake, yet continued to go on, and
presently heard some people pushing through a thicket close to us, on
which the boatman called out, 'There's one that can tell us something
about the road to Glen Coe, for he was born there.' We looked up and saw
a ragged, lame fellow, followed by some others, with a fishing-rod over
his shoulder; and he was making such good speed through the boughs that
one might have half believed he was the better for his lame leg. He was
the head of a company of tinkers, who, as the men told us, travel with
their fishing-rods as duly as their hammers. On being hailed by us the
whole company stopped; and their lame leader and our boatmen shouted to
each other in Erse--a savage cry to our ears, in that lonely and romantic
place. We could not learn from the tinker all we wished to know,
therefore when we came near to the houses William landed again with the
owner of the boat. The rain was now so heavy that we could see nothing
at all--not even the houses whither William was going.

We had given up all thought of proceeding further at that time, but were
desirous to know how far that road to Glen Coe was practicable for us.
They met with an intelligent man, who was at work with others in a hay
field, though it rained so heavily; he gave them the information they
desired, and said that there was an acquaintance of his between that
place and Glen Coe, who, he had no doubt, would gladly accommodate us
with lodging and anything else we might need. When William returned to
the boat we shaped our course back again down the water, leaving the head
of Loch Etive not o