siderable width, but the
mountains are so very high that, whether we were close under them or
looked from one shore to the other, they maintained their dignity. I
speak of the higher part of the loch, above the town of Bunawe and the
large river, for downwards they are but hills, and the water spreads out
wide towards undetermined shores. On our right was the mountain
Cruachan, rising directly from the lake, and on the opposite side another
mountain, called Ben Durinish, craggy, and exceedingly steep, with wild
wood growing among the rocks and stones.

We crossed the water, which was very rough in the middle, but calmer near
the shores, and some of the rocky basins and little creeks among the
rocks were as still as a mirror, and they were so beautiful with the
reflection of the orange-coloured seaweed growing on the stones or rocks,
that a child, with a child's delight in gay colours, might have danced
with joy at the sight of them. It never ceased raining, and the tops of
the mountains were concealed by mists, but as long as we could see across
the water we were contented; for though little could be seen of the true
shapes and permanent appearances of the mountains, we saw enough to give
us the most exquisite delight: the powerful lake which filled the large
vale, roaring torrents, clouds floating on the mountain sides, sheep that
pastured there, sea-birds and land birds. We sailed a considerable way
without coming to any houses or cultivated fields. There was no
horse-road on either side of the loch, but a person on foot, as the
boatman told us, might make his way at the foot of Ben Durinish, namely
on that side of the loch on which we were; there was, however, not the
least track to be seen, and it must be very difficult and laborious.

We happened to say that we were going to Glen Coe, which would be the
journey of a long day and a half, when one of the men, pointing to the
head of the loch, replied that if we were there we should be but an
hour's walk from Glen Coe. Though it continued raining, and there was no
hope that the rain would cease, we could not help wishing to go by that
way: it was an adventure; we were not afraid of trusting ourselves to the
hospitality of the Highlanders, and we wanted to give our horse a day's
rest, his back having been galled by the saddle. The owner of the boat,
who understood English much better than the other man, his helper, said
he would make inquiries about the road at