ake at its side, in which, according to tradition, dwell
Mahadeva (pronounced Mahadeve) and all the other good gods. Although the
water is equally blue and limpid; although each lake has for background
the same magnificent Gangri chain, Mansarowar, the creation of Brahma,
from whom it takes its name, is not nearly so weirdly fascinating as its
neighbour. Mansarowar has no ravines rising precipitously from its
waters, in which their vivid colouring would be reflected as in a mirror;
it is almost a perfect oval, without indentations. There is a stony,
slanting plain some two miles wide between the water's edge and the hills
surrounding it, except along the ridge separating it from the Rakstal,
where its shore is slightly more rugged and precipitous.

Directly south of the lake is a chain of high peaks covered with snow,
from which several streams descend. From where we stood we could see
evident signs, as in the case of the Rakstal, that the level of the lake
must at one time have been at least thirty feet higher than it is at
present, and the slanting bed of small rounded and smooth stones, which
extends from one-and-a-half to two miles beyond the water-line, is
evidence enough that the water must once have been up to that point; I
believe that it is still gradually receding.

Round the lake there are several tumbling-down sheds in charge of Lamas,
but only one important Gomba (monastery) and a temple are to be
found--viz., at Tucker village.

I was told that a small Gomba and _serai_ in charge of Lamas stands to
the N.W. of the lake, but I cannot vouch for the accuracy of the
statement, as I did not visit it myself, and the information I received
from Tibetans regarding its position and importance was conflicting.

As the nature of the country suddenly altered between the Devil's Lake
and Mansarowar, so, too, the weather and the temperature greatly changed.
Over the Rakstal we invariably saw a lovely blue sky, whereas over
Mansarowar heavy black clouds always lowered, and rain fell incessantly.
From time to time the wind blew off the rain for a few minutes, and
lovely effects of light played on the water, but fresh clouds, with
violent bursts of thunder, soon made the scene again gloomy and
depressing.

It was much warmer on the Mansarowar side of the ridge than on the other,
and, probably owing to dampness, the air seemed quite thick to breathe,
instead of being crisp and light, as it was along the shores of the
D