ained outside the tents drew their swords, holding them
clumsily in their hands in a way hardly likely to terrify any one.

To be taken for brigands was a novel experience for us, and the warlike
array was in strange contrast to the terrified expressions on the faces
of those who stood there armed. In fact, when Chanden Sing and I walked
forward and encouraged them to sheathe their steels and put their
matchlocks by, they readily followed our advice, and brought out rugs for
us to sit upon. Having overcome their fright, they were now most anxious
to be pleasant.

"_Kiula gunge gozai deva labodu!_" ("You have nice clothes!") I began the
conversation, attempting flattery, to put the chieftain at his ease.

"_Lasso, leh!_" ( "Yes, sir") answered the Tibetan, apparently
astonished, and looking at his own attire with an air of comical pride.

His answer was sufficient to show me that the man considered me his
superior, the affirmative in Tibetan to an equal or inferior being the
mere word _lasso_ without the _leh_.

[Illustration: WOMAN CARRYING CHILD IN BASKET]

"_Kiula tuku taka zando?_" ("How many children have you?") I rejoined.

"_Ni_." ("Two.")

"_Chuwen bogpe, tsamba, chou won[)i]?_" ("Will you sell me flour or
_tsamba?_")

"_Middu_--have not got any," he replied, making several quick
semicircular movements with the up-turned palm of his right hand.

This is a most characteristic action of the Tibetan, and nearly
invariably accompanies the word "No," instead of a movement of the head,
as with us.

"_Keran ga naddoung?_" ("Where are you going?") he asked me eagerly.

"_Nhgarang ne Koroun!_" ("I am a pilgrim!") "_Lungba quorghen neh
jelghen_." ("I go looking at sacred places.")

"_Gopria zaldo. Chakzal wortzie. Tsamba middu. Bogpe middu, guram middu,
die middu, kassur middu._" ("I am very poor. Please hear me. I have no
_tsamba_, no flour, no sweet paste, no rice, no dried fruit.")

This, of course, I knew to be untrue, so I calmly said that I would
remain seated where I was until food was sold to me, and at the same time
produced one or two silver coins, the display of which to the covetous
eyes of the Tibetans was always the means of hastening the transaction of
business. In small handfuls, after each of which the Tibetans swore that
they had not another atom to sell, I managed, with somewhat of a trial to
my patience, to purchase some twenty pounds of food. The moment the money
was handed over they ha