alley we were following, and was soon swollen by other
rivulets from melting snows on the mountains to either side. This was one
source[24] of the great Brahmaputra, one of the largest rivers of the
world. I must confess that I felt somewhat proud to be the first European
who had ever reached these sources, and there was a certain childish
delight in standing over this sacred stream which, of such immense width
lower down, could here be spanned by a man standing with legs slightly
apart. We drank of its waters at the spot where it had its birth, and
then, following a marked track to 125 deg. (b.m.), we continued our descent
on a gentle incline along a grassy valley. The change in the climate
between the West and South-east sides of the Maium Pass was
extraordinary. On the Western side we had nothing but violent storms of
hail, rain and snow, the dampness in the air rendering the atmosphere
cold even during the day. The soil was unusually marshy, and very little
fuel or grass could be found. The moment the pass was crossed we were in
a mild, pleasant climate, with a lovely deep blue sky over us and plenty
of grass for the yaks, as well as low shrubs for our fires; so that,
after all our sufferings and privations, we felt that we had indeed
entered the land of God. Notwithstanding that I expected great trouble
sooner or later, I was not at all sorry I had disobeyed the soldiers'
orders and had marched straight into the forbidden territory--it was a
kind of wild satisfaction at doing that which is forbidden.

The Brahmaputra received three small snow-fed tributaries descending
rapidly from the steep mountains on either side of us; and where the main
stream turned sharply to 170 deg., a fourth and important tributary, carrying
a very large volume of water, came down to it through a gorge from 20 deg.
(b.m.).

We encamped near the junction of these rivers, on the right bank of the
main stream, at an altitude of 16,620 feet. From the Maium Pass a
continuation of the Gangri chain of mountains runs first in a
South-easterly direction, then due East, taking a line almost parallel to
the higher Southern range of the Himahlyas, and forming a vast plain
intersected by the Brahmaputra. On the Southern side of the river can be
seen minor hill ranges between the river course and the big range with
its majestic snowy peaks and beautiful glaciers. This Northern range
keeps an almost parallel line to the greater range southward; and, tho