much puzzled as to how to take my men across: they could not swim, and
the water was so cold that a dip in it would give any one a severe shock.
However, there was no time to be lost, for the river was visibly rising,
and as the storm was getting worse, difficulties would only increase
every moment. We took off every stitch of clothing and fastened our
garments, with our rifles, &c., on the pack-saddles of the yaks, which we
sent into the water. They are good swimmers, and though the current
carried them over a hundred yards down stream, we saw them with
satisfaction scramble out of the water on to the opposite bank.
Notwithstanding the faith that Chanden Sing and Mansing had in my
swimming, they really thought that their last hour had come when I took
each by the hand and asked them to follow me into the stream. Hardly had
we gone twelve yards when the inevitable took place. We were all three
swept away, and Chanden Sing and Mansing in their panic clung tight to my
arms and dragged me under water. Though I swam my hardest with my legs,
we continually came to the surface and then sank again, owing to the dead
weight of my helpless mates. But at last, after a desperate struggle, the
current washed us on to the opposite side, where we found our feet, and
were soon able to scramble out of the treacherous river. We were some two
hundred yards down stream from the spot at which we had entered the
river, and such was the quantity of muddy water we had swallowed that we
all three became sick. This left us much exhausted, and, as the storm
showed no signs of abating, we encamped (16,320 feet) there and then on
the left bank of the stream. Though we sadly needed some warm food, there
was, of course, no possibility of lighting a fire. A piece of chocolate
was all I had that night, and my men preferred to eat nothing rather than
break their caste by eating my food.

[Illustration: TIBETAN DOG]

[Illustration: SMALL MANI WALL]

We were asleep under our little tent, the hour being about eleven, when
there was a noise outside as of voices and people stumbling against
stones. I was out in a moment with my rifle, and shouted the usual
"_Palado_" ("Go away"), in answer to which, though I could see nothing
owing to the darkness, I heard several stones flung from slings whizzing
past me. One of these hit the tent, and a dog barked furiously. I fired a
shot in the air, which had the good effect of producing a hasty retreat
of our enemies