ugh
no peaks of very considerable elevation are to be found along it, yet it
is of geographical importance, as its Southern slopes form the Northern
watershed of the holy river as far as Lhassa.

The valley enclosed between these two parallel ranges is the most thickly
populated valley in Tibet. Grass is abundant, and fuel easily obtainable,
and therefore thousands of yaks, sheep, and goats can be seen grazing
near the many Tibetan camps along the Brahmaputra and its principal
tributaries. The trade route taken by the caravans from Ladak to Lhassa
follows this valley; and, as I came to Tibet to see and study the
Tibetans, I thought that, although I might run greater risks, I could in
no part of the country accomplish my object better than by going along
this thickly populated track.

[24] I passed the other source on the return journey.

CHAPTER LXI

Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A
dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A
new friend.

WE slept very little, as we expected the soldiers to attack us during the
night to try and stop our progress, but all was quiet and nothing
happened; our yaks, however, managed to get loose, and we had some
difficulty in recovering them in the morning, for they had swum across
the stream, and had gone about a mile from camp on the other side.

The night had been very cold, the thermometer dropping as low as 321/2 deg.. We
did not pitch our little tent, in case of emergencies, and we were tired
and cold after the long march of the previous day. There was a
South-westerly breeze blowing and I found it hard to have to cross the
river, chase the yaks and bring them back to camp. Then, exhausted as we
were, we had in addition to go through the daily routine of loading them.
We followed the right bank of the stream to bearings 170 deg. (m.), then to
142 deg. 30' (b.m.), where it wound in and out between barren hills,
subsequently flowing through a grassy valley three-quarters of a mile
wide and a mile and a half long. It then went through a narrow passage to
17 deg. 30' (b.m.) and turned to 103 deg. and farther to 142 deg. through an
undulating grassy valley two miles wide, in crossing which we were caught
in a terrific thunderstorm, with hail and rain. This was indeed an
annoying experience, for we were now before a very large tributary of the
Brahmaputra, and the stream was so swollen, rapid and deep that I was