lower, being, however, even then hardly
fordable. On leaving Tarbar, we followed for a while the course of the
river, and, the day being glorious, we were able to admire fully the
magnificent panorama of the great rugged mountain-range to our
South-west. The higher peaks were nearly all of a pyramidical shape, and
at 226 deg. 30' (b.m.) I observed a gigantic quadrangular peak which I took
to be Mount Everest. Next to it, at 225 deg. 30' (b.m.), is a pyramidical
peak, very lofty, but not to be compared in height or beauty to its
neighbour. I followed a general course towards 120 deg. (b.m.), and as the
river, which we had more or less followed, now described a big bend
towards the S.S.E., I decided to cross it. We waded through it
successfully with water up to our necks, and again we found ourselves
upon marshy land, with a repetition of the previous day's experience.

[Illustration: OLD WOMAN]

Farther on, we crossed three more tributaries of the larger stream, all
fairly wide and deep; and then we had once more to get across the main
river, now of such depth and rapidity as to cause us much trouble and no
small danger. The river traverses the plain in zigzag fashion, and,
unless we wanted to follow its banks, and so lengthen the journey by
double or treble the distance, this was the only course open to us. Thus,
while trying to travel in a straight line, we found ourselves for the
third time confronted by this great river, now swollen by other snow-fed
streams, and carrying an immense body of water. It was in the afternoon,
too, when the water was at its highest. We attempted a crossing at
several points, but found it impossible; so I made up my mind to wait for
low water early next morning.

CHAPTER LXX

Another Tibetan encampment--Uncontrollable animals--A big
stream--Washed away--In dreadful suspense--Rescuing the
yak--Diving at great altitudes and its effects--How my two
followers got across--A precarious outlook and a little comfort.

[Illustration: CONTRIVANCE FOR CARRYING LOADS]

APPARENTLY my yaks knew this part of the country well; and I noticed
that, whenever I lost the track, all I had to do was to follow them, and
they would bring me back to it again. Even when I drove them away from
the track, they showed a great disinclination to move, whereas they
proceeded willingly enough while we were on the high road, which, mark
you, is no road at all, for no track is visible excep