d a quarrel among themselves about it, and almost
came to blows, greed and avarice being the most marked characteristic of
the Tibetans. No Tibetan of any rank is ashamed to beg in the most abject
manner for the smallest silver coin, and when he sells and is paid, he
always implores for another coin, to be thrown into the bargain.

[22] All bearings given are magnetic.

CHAPTER LII

What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal
work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack
saddles.

THE men of the party were extremely picturesque, with hair flowing down
their shoulders and long pigtails ornamented with pieces of red cloth,
circles of ivory and silver coins. Nearly all had the stereotyped pattern
coat, with ample sleeves hanging well over the hands, and pulled up at
the waist to receive the paraphernalia of eating-bowls, snuff-box, &c.,
employed in daily life. Most of them were dressed in dark red, and all
were armed with jewelled swords.

With flat, broad noses and slits of piercing eyes, high cheek-bones and
skin giving out abundant oily excretions, most of the men stood at a
respectful distance, scrutinising our faces and watching our movements
apparently with much interest. I have hardly ever seen such cowardice and
timidity as among these big, hulking fellows; to a European it scarcely
seems conceivable. The mere raising of one's eyes was sufficient to make
a man dash away frightened, and, with the exception of the chief, who
pretended to be unafraid, notwithstanding that even he was trembling with
fear, they one and all showed ridiculous nervousness when I approached
them to examine their clothes or the ornaments they wore round their
necks, the most prominent of which were the charm-boxes that dangled on
their chests. The larger of these charm-boxes contained an image of
Budda, the others were mere brass or silver cases with nothing in them.

I was struck here, as well as in other camps, by the skill of the
Tibetans in working leather, which they tan and prepare themselves, often
giving to it a fine red or green colour. As a rule, however, the natural
tint is preserved, especially when the leather is used for belts, bullet
and powder-pouches, and flint-and-steel cases. The hair of the skins is
removed by plucking and scraping, and preference is shown for skins of
the yak, antelope, and kiang. The Tibetans are masters of the art of
skinning, the hides bein