evil's Lake. Indeed, when I recall the Mansarowar, I cannot help
thinking that it is the home, not only of the gods, but also of all the
storms.

[Illustration: A TIBETAN FORTUNE TELLER]

CHAPTER XLIII

The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy
marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery
and village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a
roof.

WE descended some two miles to the plain, and crossed a rapid delta of
the Langa Tsangpo or Langa River; then another, a mile farther. As these
rivers came directly from the snows, the water was very cold, and often
three or four feet deep, owing to the thawing of the snow and ice during
the day.

No sooner had we reached the shores of the Mansarowar, than the heavy
clouds which had been hanging over our heads poured forth such a torrent
of rain, that in a moment we were drenched to the skin. We were marching
very fast, as all our heavy loads were now on the two yaks, but night was
well advanced, and the darkness was such that we could only see a few
inches in front of us. We were actually walking in an inch or two of
water, and a fierce S.E. wind drove the rain and hail so hard into our
faces and hands as to cause us considerable pain. We were frozen in our
wet garments, and our teeth were chattering, though we walked quickly,
keeping close together. From time to time a bright flash of lightning
shone on the lake, followed by a terrific crash of thunder, and by what
we could see during those few seconds of light we tried to steer our way
towards Tucker village and Gomba.

The rivers, swollen by the rain, were extremely difficult to cross, and
the water seemed to flow so rapidly on the inclined bed, that it was all
we could do to keep on our feet. So wet were we that we did not even take
the trouble to remove our shoes or garments, and we splashed through,
clothes and all. Three times we went into the freezing water above our
waists, and then we marched for apparently endless miles on the pebbly
and stony incline. We could not see where we were going, and the storm
seemed to grow worse every moment: we stumbled on amidst large stones and
boulders, and fell over one another on slippery rocks. Farther on, we
sank up to our knees in mud, and each time that we lifted a foot it
seemed to be of lead. It was a downpour such as I had seldom before
experienced.

"Are you quite sure, Kachi, that this