or sanctified Buddhist heroes which were
grouped along the walls of the temple. The largest of these were about
five feet high, the others about three feet. Some were carved out of
wood, their drapery and ornaments being fairly artistic in arrangement
and execution, while others were fashioned in gilt metal. There were a
number in a sitting posture and some standing erect; and they all rested
on ornamented pedestals or plainer bases painted blue, red, white and
yellow. Many wore the ancient Chinese double-winged cap, as used to this
day by Corean officials, and were placed in recesses in the wall
decorated with stuffs, wood carvings, and rough paintings of images.

[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE TUCKER TEMPLE]

At the foot of these images was a long shelf, on which, in bright brass
vessels of all sizes, were oblations of _tsamba_, dried fruit, _chura_,
wheat and rice offered through the Lamas by the devotees to the different
saints. Some of the ears of barley were ornamented with imitation leaves
of _murr_ (butter), coloured red, blue and yellow.

The ceiling of the temple was draped in red woollen cloth similar to that
of the clothes worn by the Lamas themselves, and from it hung hundreds of
strips of silk, wool and cotton of all imaginable colours. The roof was
supported by columns of wood forming a quadrangle in the centre of the
temple and joined by a balustrade, compelling the worshippers to make a
circuit from left to right in order to pass before the several images. In
a shrine in the central part of the wall facing the entrance was _Urghin_
or _Kunjuk-chick_, "God alone," and in front of it on a kind of altar
covered with a carpet a collection of donations far more abundant than
those offered to the other images.

The Lama, pointing at it, told me that it was a good God, and so I
salaamed it and deposited a small offering in a handy collection-box,
which seemed to please the Lama greatly, for he at once fetched a holy
water amphora, hung with long veils of friendship and love, and poured
some scented liquid on the palms of my hands. Then, producing a strip of
veil, he wetted it with the scent and presented it to me. The majority of
pilgrims generally go round the inside of the temple on their knees, but,
notwithstanding that, to avoid offending prejudices, I generally follow
the principle of doing in Rome as the Romans do, I could not here afford
the chance of placing myself at such a disadvantage in case of