eleiohoku
is not far off. They all come here in the most unpretending way
possible, and amuse themselves by fishing and bathing.

It had been quite dark for some time, when the Princess Likelike
dropped me at the hotel at half-past seven, where I found Tom and Mr.
Freer waiting for me. We had a quiet dinner, and then went for a
stroll. It was a fine clear night, with an almost full moon. The
streets were full of equestrians, riding about in pairs, for there was
to be a great riding party up to the Pali to-night, the _rendezvous_
for which was in Emma Square. Every lady had to select and bring with
her an attendant cavalier.[14]

[Footnote 14: The event was thus announced in the 'Hawaiian
Gazette:'--'THE LAST CHANCE.--We are informed that a riding party will
come off on Friday evening, when all the young ladies who desire to
participate are expected to be on hand, each with the cavalier whom
she may invite. As leap-year is drawing to a close it is expected that
this opportunity will be extensively embraced. Place of rendezvous,
Emma Square: time, seven-thirty; Luminary for the occasion, a full
moon.']

There are no side-saddles in any of these islands; all the ladies
ride like men, and sit their horses very well. They wear long
riding-dresses, cleverly and elegantly adapted to the exigencies of
the situation, generally of some light material, and of _very_ bright
colours. The effect of a large party galloping along, with wreaths and
garlands in their hats and necks, and with their long skirts floating
in the wind, is therefore picturesque and strange in the extreme.

_Saturday, December 30th_.--Mabelle, Muriel, and I, were up early, and
went off to the coral-reef before seven in the 'Flash.' It is very
beautiful, but not so fine as those we have already seen at Tahiti and
other South Sea Islands. We collected four or the distinct varieties
of coral, and saw many marvellous creatures swimming about or sticking
to the rocks. There were several canoes full of natives fishing, who
appeared highly amused when we ran aground on a coral tree, as
happened more than once. It was a pleasant way of spending the early
morning in the bright sunshine, peering into the dark blue and light
green depths below.

Breakfast was ready by the time we returned on board, and soon
afterwards I went on shore to pay some visits and to do some shopping.
We went first to the fish-market, which presented a most animated
scene, owing not only t