d have
been interesting to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect
specimen.

We had hoped to make the Caroline Islands before dark (not the
Caroline Islands proper, but a group of low islets, whose position is
very uncertainly indicated in the different charts and books); but the
wind fell light, and as we could see nothing of them at sunset,
although the view from the masthead extended at least fifteen miles in
every direction, it was decided at eight o'clock to put the ship
about, to insure not running on them or any of the surrounding reefs
in the night. The currents run very swiftly between these islands, and
it is impossible to tell your exact position, even a few hours after
having taken an observation.

_Tuesday, December 12th_.--The wind freshened immediately after we had
changed our course last night, and fell light directly we had put
about again this morning, so that it was fully 9 a.m. before we had
regained our position of yesterday evening.

Our compass-cards were getting worn out, and Tom gave out new ones
before leaving Tahiti. I was very much amused to-night, when, as
usual, just before going to bed, I went to have a look at the compass
and see how the yacht was lying, and asked the man at the wheel what
course he was steering. 'North and by west, half-east, ma'am,' he
replied. 'That's a funny course,' I said; 'tell me again.' He
repeated his statement; whereupon I remarked that the course was quite
a new one to me. 'Oh, yes, ma'am,' he answered, 'but them's the new
compass-cards.' This man is one of the best helmsmen in the ship, but
certainly seems to be an indifferent scholar.

_Friday, December 15th_.--We crossed the line at half-past four this
morning. Father Neptune was to have paid us another visit in the
evening, but the crew were busy, and there were some difficulties
about arranging the details of the ceremony. The children were
obliged, therefore, to be content with their usual game of drilling
every one that they were able to muster for soldiers, after the
fashion of Captain Brown's 'rifle practice,' or marching up and down
the decks to the strains of Jem Butt's fiddle playing 'Tommy make room
for your Uncle,' accompanied by the somewhat discordant noise of their
own drums. These amusements after sunset, and scrubbing decks and
working at the pumps before sunrise, give us all the much-needed
exercise it is impossible to take in the heat of the daytime.

[Illustration: Tattoo i