hen the shower was over, we walked through the town, which is
clean and tidy, being laid out in squares, after the American style.
The houses are all of wood, and generally have verandahs overhanging
the street. They are seldom more than one story high, and nearly all
have a little greenery about them.

We returned to the yacht for breakfast, and, having heard that no
sharks ever came into the long, narrow bay, were able to enjoy, in
perfect peace of mind, the luxury of a bath overboard. It is a great
pity that in the tropics, where bathing is such a delightful
occupation, and where one might swim and paddle about for hours
without fear of getting cold, it is often impossible even to enter the
water for fear of the sharks. The natives are such expert swimmers
that they do not seem to think much of this danger. As the shark turns
on his back to take a bite at them, they dive underneath him, and he
snaps his jaws on emptiness. In fact, sometimes the swimmer will take
advantage of the opportunity to stab his enemy as he passes beneath
him.

Scarcely was breakfast over when we were inundated with visitors, who
kindly came to see what they could do for us to make our stay
agreeable. We lunched on shore, and afterwards went to the new
Government buildings and museum. From thence we strolled to the
various shops where 'curios' and photographs are to be bought, and
collected a goodly store, returning on board the yacht to find more
visitors.

[Illustration: War Necklace[13]]

[Footnote 13: The accompanying sketch is from a necklace that belonged
to King Kamehameha I., and was given to me by one of his descendants.]

We lunched on shore, and afterwards went with Mr. Chambre,
navigating-lieutenant of the 'Fantome,' to the new Government
buildings. There we found an excellent English library, and an
interesting collection of books printed in English and Hawaiian, on
alternate pages, including alphabets, grammars, the old familiar
nursery tales, &c. There is also a good, though small museum,
containing specimens of beautiful corals, shells, seaweeds, and
fossils; all the ancient native weapons, such as bows, arrows, swords,
and spears--now, alas! no longer procurable--sling-stones, and stones
used in games, back-scratchers, hair-ornaments made of sharks' teeth,
tortoise-shell cups and spoons, calabashes and bowls. There were some
most interesting though somewhat horrible necklaces made of hundreds
of braids of human hair cut