in
my eyes a charming one, and I like the inhabitants of Polynesia for
their love of flowers. They are as necessary to them as the air they
breathe, and I think the missionaries make a mistake in endeavouring
to repress so innocent and natural a taste.

The whole town was _en fete_ to-day. Natives were riding about in
pairs, in the cleanest of bright cotton dresses and the freshest of
_leis_ and garlands. Our own men from the yacht contributed not a
little to the gaiety of the scene. They were all on shore, and the
greater part of them were galloping about on horseback, tumbling off,
scrambling on again, laughing, flirting, joking, and enjoying
themselves generally after a fashion peculiar to English sailors. As
far as we know the only evil result of all this merriment was that the
doctor received a good many applications for diachylon plaster in the
course of the evening, to repair various 'abrasions of the cuticle,'
as he expressed it.

I think at least half the population of Hilo had been on board the
yacht in the course of the day, as a Christmas treat. At last we took
a boat and went off too, accompanied by Mr. Lyman. The appearance of
the 'Sunbeam' from the shore was very gay, and as we approached it
became more festive still. All her masts were tipped with sugar-canes
in bloom. Her stern was adorned with flowers, and in the arms of the
figure-head was a large bouquet. She was surrounded with boats, the
occupants of which cheered us heartily as we rowed alongside. The
gangway was decorated with flowers, and surmounted by a triumphal
arch, on which were inscribed 'Welcome Home,' 'A Merry Christmas,' 'A
Happy New Year,' and other good wishes. The whole deck was festooned
with tropical plants and flowers, and the decorations of the cabins
were even more beautiful and elaborate. I believe all hands had been
hard at work ever since we left to produce this wonderful effect, and
every garden in Hilo had furnished a contribution to please and
surprise us on our return.

The choir from Hilo came out in boats in the evening, sang all sorts
of songs, sacred and secular, and cheered everybody till they were
hoarse. After this, having had a cold dinner, in order to save
trouble, and having duly drunk the health of our friends at home, we
all adjourned to the saloon, to assist in the distribution of some
Christmas presents, a ceremony which afforded great delight to the
children, and which was equally pleasing to the elder