n the Tropics]
_Saturday, December 16th_.--At 1.30 a.m. I was awoke by the strains
of sweet music, and could not at first imagine where I could be, or
whence the sounds came. It proved to be the performance of some
'waits' on board. I do not know who originated the idea, but it was a
very good one, and was excellently carried out. Everybody assembled on
deck by degrees, and the songsters enjoyed a glass of grog when their
labours were finished, after which we all went to bed again.
It had fallen calm yesterday evening, and the funnel was raised at
midnight, but the breeze sprang up again to-day, and at noon the fires
were banked and the sails were set. Of course it then fell calm again,
and at six o'clock we were once more proceeding under steam. There was
one squall in the night, accompanied by the most tremendous rain I
ever saw or heard. We talk of tropical rain in England, but the real
thing is very different. It seemed just as if the bottom of an
enormous cistern overhead had suddenly been removed, allowing the
contents to fall exactly on the spot where we were. The water came
down in sheets, and was soon three or four inches deep on the deck,
though it was pouring out of the scuppers all the time as fast as
possible.
_Sunday, December 17th_.--A showery morning. We had Communion Service
and hymns at eleven. In the afternoon it was too rough for 'church,'
and Tom was unable to deliver his intended address to the men.
_Monday, December 18th_.--We were close-hauled, with a strong
north-east wind, and heavy squalls and showers at intervals. We saw
several flying-fish and a good many birds, apparently hovering over a
shoal of whales or grampuses. It is wonderful how little life we have
seen on this portion of our voyage.
_Tuesday, December 19th_.--A fine day--wind rather more fair--sea
still rough and disagreeable. I tried to work hard all day, but found
it very difficult.
_Thursday, December 21st_.--Wind variable and baffling--sometimes
calm, sometimes squally, sometimes a nice breeze. Sails were hoisted
and lowered at least a dozen times, and fires were banked more than
once.
_Friday, December 22nd_.--At 6.30 a.m. we made the island of Hawaii,
rather too much to leeward, as we had been carried by the strong
current at least eighteen miles out of our course. We were therefore
obliged to beat up to windward, in the course of which operation we
passed a large barque running before the wind--the first ship
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