n the side next to the citadel, but I
could discover none that boasted of very remote antiquity. Outside the
town, is a public walk beautifully embowered in trees.

[Sidenote: SHARKS.--NAUPLIA.] Several sharks made their appearance round
the Barham, and sometimes approached our vessel. As they sailed rapidly
up and down, their sharp serrated fins rising above the surface of the
calm unruffled waves, reminded me of the circular saw at Portsmouth
dockyard, working its way through some vast beam of timber, verging
neither to right or left, but keeping on its steady course heedless of
all impediments. The rifles were quickly in requisition, and several of
the officers of the Barham repeatedly shot at them, but did not manage
to boat one.

Went on shore, and visited the modern town of Nauplia; where I observed
that many respectable houses have been recently erected, several good
shops opened, and the streets are much cleaner than might be expected.
Its old palace was an insignificant building, but they are adding
considerably to it. The Greeks being forbidden to carry arms, their
costume is less picturesque than formerly; but, on some of the
noble-looking figures I saw, it still appeared handsome and becoming.
None of Graecia's beauteous daughters were visible to-day, all the women
being invariably ugly, and by no means well dressed. To-morrow is a
_festa_, when perhaps I shall have more reason to admire them.

[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF KING OTHO.]_Sunday, 14th._--Walked towards
Argos, and took a sketch of the bay, but observed no pretty faces, and
very few handsome dresses either native or foreign. The Bavarian troops
are mean-looking men, and their light blue uniform is far from imposing.
On my return I saw the king walk in procession to church. The Greeks, no
doubt, dislike his religion, they being much more intolerant towards
Roman Catholics than the Protestants are; yet, as he visits the churches
on all _festas_, they do not openly murmur. His personal appearance
certainly wants dignity, and his Tartar features appear to great
disadvantage when contrasted with those of true Grecian mould, by which
he is surrounded. However, his prepossessing manners and perfect
urbanity, in some measure compensate for these personal defects; and,
upon the whole, the people appear well pleased and contented with their
youthful monarch. It is said the palikari, or soldiers of the late
governments, do not unite themselves with the regular