hite as snow. They are a fine
robust race of men, and their muscular sun-burnt forms are displayed to
advantage through the gauze which so slightly covers them. At each
stroke they utter a grunt, by forcing the breath suddenly from the
chest; to acquire this accomplishment, is considered a necessary part of
the boatman's education, and his character depends much upon it.

When we arrived at the landing-place of Tophana, a Turk, splendidly
habited, pulled the caique close up with a long pole, and assisted us
out; for which service he was rewarded with a few paras.[8]

A fountain of singular beauty is here erected in the centre of the fish
and vegetable market, which, from its vicinity to the arsenal, and from
its being the landing-place for all pleasure boats coming from Scutari
and the neighbouring villages of the Bosphorus, is constantly occupied
by a crowd of idlers.

In the street leading up to Pera, the throng, which was also
considerable, presented an infinite variety of novel and picturesque
costume. The pavement is bad, but very clean, and greatly exceeds in
this respect the narrow streets of the generality of Italian or Scotch
towns. There is no cry of "heads below;" and a man may wander about at
night without any fear of other rain than that of heaven, provided he
carries a light with him.

[Sidenote: PERA.--DESTRUCTIVE FIRE.] Pera is recovering but slowly from
the destructive fire, which two years ago ravaged this quarter of
Constantinople; for, owing to the unsettled condition of public affairs,
and the uncertainty as to who may be the future masters of this capital,
the rich are unwilling to embark their property in building speculations
on any very extensive scale. However, three handsome streets have been
finished, the houses of which appear better and more commodiously built
than they were formerly. Having secured apartments in a very comfortable
lodging-house, kept by one Guiseppino Vitali, we paid a visit to Mr.
Cartwright, the consul-general, perhaps one of the most excellent and
kind-hearted individuals ever invested with the consular authority.
Since the fire, he has built a very comfortable house, where he
exercises a generous and unbounded hospitality.

[Sidenote: HOSPITALITY OF THE BRITISH CONSUL.] From Messrs. Black and
Hardy, our bankers in Galata, we also experienced the most friendly
attentions. We thence proceeded to Mr. Stampa's, that emporium of all
good condiments, where Adrianople to