or an
instant, he pops out his head like a spider, to ascertain whether it is
a bite or not. We passed through the pipe-stick bazaar, situated in an
open street: on one side of which, pipe-sticks and amber mouth-pieces
are exposed to sale; the other being almost entirely occupied by
turners, who work with extraordinary neatness, considering the imperfect
nature of their tools. From the bazaar where cotton handkerchiefs and
shawls, English and German, are sold, we passed to the shop of Mustapha,
the scent dealer, where we established ourselves for a luncheon,
consisting of pipes, coffee, and lemonade, while the various bottles of
perfume,--viz. attar of roses and jasmine, musk, musk rat-tails, lemon
essence, sandal wood, pastilles, dyes, all the sweet odours that form
part and parcel of a sultana's toilet, were temptingly exposed to our
view. From time to time, portions of these delicacies were rubbed on our
whiskers, hands, and lips, to induce us to purchase; so that when we
left the shop to return to Pera, we were a walking bouquet of
_millefleurs_, and might have been scented a mile off. After visiting
the dockyard, where a line of battle ship and two frigates were getting
ready for sea, we climbed the hill of Pera, under the shade of the dark
and splendid cypress trees covering the burial ground, and from which
long avenues lead to various parts of the town. [Sidenote: PUBLIC
PROMENADES.] These are the favourite walks of the Perotes; and the gay
dresses of the ladies, who, in joyous parties, ramble along the silent
and gloomy pathways, contrast oddly with the sad and mournful character
of this place of tombs. We again strolled about in this ground after
dinner; but were soon tired, the cold being too severe to be pleasant;
and even the inhabitants retire early. The evenings at Pera are not
agreeable, there being no public amusements into which one can enter;
and society is so garbled with form and etiquette, that it is hardly
worth seeking; smoking, therefore, is the only resource, and most people
adopt it.

[Sidenote: PIPE-STICK BAZAAR.] _Monday, 6th._--This morning we landed at
the Lemon Skalese, where the fruit bazaar stands. Here were shops full
of Smyrna figs, dried dates, plums, and various other fruits; with
cheese, and Russian butter. We went thence through the place where wax
candles are sold, to the pipe-stick bazaar, where I intended to be a
purchaser both of amber and cherry sticks. Of the former there ar