sence of the rosy hue of health is unpleasing; and the custom
of staining the lips and blackening the eyelashes, communicates a
ghastly paleness to their features. Yet their skin is excessively
delicate; and many of the small white hands I saw to-day, would create
an envious feeling in more than one lady patroness of Almacks. I
particularly noticed one lady, apparently the wife of some Turk of
distinction, who was seated upon a splendid Persian carpet spread upon
the grass, and surrounded by fourteen young female slaves, whose
beautiful eyes were alone visible, the rest of their faces being closely
covered up. They appeared very fond of music, for they had two bands
singing and playing different airs at the same moment, both parties
contending which could scream the loudest. On returning towards the
landing-place, we met numbers of Greek ladies and gentlemen with guitars
and clarionets coming up to pass the evening in singing and dancing upon
the green turf.

As our caique again glided swiftly down the stream, we passed many
similar vessels, containing seven or eight Turkish women each, and up
went the yashmak at our approach. Boat loads of Perotes, with gay
turbans and toques, were also seen hastening to the festive scene; and,
on arriving at our homes, we found the churchyard empty, and all Pera
silent and tranquil, as if deserted by its inhabitants.

[Sidenote: DANCING DERVISHES.] _Tuesday, 14th._--Visited the mosque at
Pera, to witness the ceremonies of the dancing dervishes. This edifice
is built in the form of an octagon, having a gallery extending round the
interior on six of the sides, under which the public sit. In one of
these galleries hung the cloaks of the dervishes; and in another was
posted the music, consisting of a drum, Turkish flutes, and a dulcimer.
Outside the building on the left of the entrance, but only separated by
a trellis-work, is the women's receptacle. This was crowded, as was also
the part assigned to such as took no share in the ceremonies. The centre
of the mosque is railed off; and the chief priest, who wore a green
dress, with a white hat, partly covered by a green shawl, was seated
opposite the grand entrance on a red cushion, placed upon a carpet
spread upon the floor, which is of chestnut wood, polished to brightness
by the constant friction of the dervishes' feet. From the centre of the
roof, was suspended an octagonal bar of brass, to which lamps of
different sizes were attached,