The gentleman entered the building, but quickly returned, saying,--'That
it was not the church he sought.'--'Well, then,' replied the gondolier,
'we will try another.' In this way they visited half a dozen churches;
but the traveller was still unsatisfied. The gondolier was in despair:
he had been rowing to and fro, from one end of Venice to the other, for
the last four hours. At length he suddenly pulled up before a very
ancient and venerable building; the gentleman entered, but as quickly
came out again, with the same complaint. 'Not right this time?' said the
gondolier: 'Why this is the church of Tutti Santi[11]; and if your
patron saint is not here, by San Giacomo, he is in no other church of
Venice!'".
[Sidenote: COLLEGE OF PAGES.] _Friday, 24th._--To-day I passed by the
ruins of the College of Pages, situated at the north end of Pera. Here
were educated, in various languages and accomplishments, the pages of
the Sultan,--selected from the sons of persons of the greatest
distinction among the Turks. Their education began about the age of nine
years, and continued till they were thought sufficiently instructed to
attend to the duties of their appointments about the Sultan's palace.
This noble structure was destroyed in the great fire; and will,
probably, never be rebuilt, unless some rich merchant purchases the
ground and materials, or some foreign ambassador receives it as a
present. Passed through the Christian burying-ground, which is adorned
with beautiful walks, overshadowed by cypresses; it is the favourite
winter promenade. Thence a steep descent leads to the Sultan's new
barracks; which are handsome square buildings, with regular windows, and
a turret at each angle. [Sidenote: SULTAN'S VISIT TO THE MOSQUE.] The
Sultan himself is now staying at his new palace in the neighbourhood of
Dolma Batche; and the streets of the village were gravelled for him to
go to prayers, which we were informed he would do at twelve o'clock.
From a dread of tumult or assassination, he never visits any mosque in
the city, contrary to the custom of his predecessors; and, for similar
reasons, he never announces to which he will go until the same morning,
and that as late as possible: in fact, time is only allowed for the
guards to assemble, and the ordinary preparations to be made for
receiving him.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the
Author.
The Sultan going to Mosque.
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