ate than never.

[Sidenote: THE SYMPLEGADES.] After sailing past the old ruined Genoese
castles, which have been restored by some French engineer, we entered
the Sea of Storms. Near the coast, which is low and sandy, in the
direction of Rivaz, arise the "blue Symplegades," those fatal rocks,
about which so many fables had been narrated by the ancient poets; and I
expected to behold vast masses of rugged cliffs: but certainly these
_geese_ have been magnified into _swans_; for there was nothing to
inspire terror on the present occasion, though it is possible the waves
may break violently on them during a storm, and perhaps a Turkish vessel
might be reminded of _Davy Jones_. [Sidenote: COLOUR OF THE BLACK SEA.]
We returned after having gone about three miles out, and satisfied some
of our _learned_ associates that, although the element on which we were
sailing was called the _Black_ Sea, the water was not in reality of
that colour: some of the more hardened unbelievers, however, aware that
experiment is the test of truth, actually insisted on having a bucket of
it hauled up, and examined in a tumbler, before they would renounce
their preconceived opinions.

A long discussion now arose, whether the boat should remain until the
next evening at Buyukdere, or proceed onwards to Galata, after landing
those who wished to disembark at the former place. After a stormy
debate, the first-named proposition was carried by a large majority, a
majority decided by the democratic principle of vote by ballot.
Notwithstanding this apparent settlement of the question, the captain
changed his mind, and, landing those who were Buyukderotes, he left them
to find their way to Stamboul, and obtain lodgings for themselves as
they could: rather a difficult thing, by the by; for to-morrow evening
the Austrian ambassador gives a grand fete, dinner, ball, and supper to
the Prince of Bavaria, who is to review the Russian troops in the
morning, and leave Stamboul on Monday. All attempts have failed to
procure him an audience of the Sultan, who will not receive him,
because, he says, naturally enough, "What has he to do with me, or I
with him? He is brother of the King of Greece: granted: but why come to
intrude himself here? I will not see him; it can do no good." These were
the Sultan's words, in answer to the application.

[Sidenote: CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIANS.] Having landed at Buyukdere, with
many of the _Inglesi_, we went to the hotel, a clean, c