myself of the
discovery, and the day was spent in cooling one's interior, as no means
could be found to do the same for the outward man.

_Saturday, 29th._--This morning the Rover, a very pretty and
wicked-looking sloop, came in from the West, and sailed again soon
after. I was occupied this entire day in making blue and white lights to
burn in the grotto of Antiparos. By midnight all the passengers and crew
were in their places on board the steamer; and the ladders were hauled
up, the cook's assistant being the only individual missing. Our object
was, to get a day off the quarantine, by having every one on board
before midnight, and making that day count as one, as we might be said
to have nominally left Smyrna on it. The Spaniards returned to the
vessel, accompanied by a band, and three boat-loads of ladies, who
continued sailing round and round the vessel until a very early hour, so
unwilling were they to say farewell.

[Sidenote: FORTUNATE ESCAPE.] One of the young gallants, in leaning over
the bows of the boat, overbalanced himself, and dropped into the water,
from whence he was quickly rescued by these fair damsels, who thus
became the guardian Naiads of the place; for without their assistance he
most probably would have been drowned.

[Illustration: HOUSES IN SCIO.]

_Sunday, 30th._--At five this morning we bade adieu to Smyrna; and never
did I send aloft a more sincere prayer than when petitioning to see it
no more. By the forenoon, we were off the Island of Scio, the coast of
which presented much beautiful and picturesque scenery. The wind now
gradually increased to a stiff breeze, and the weather became
threatening; so that the first symptoms of turning in made their
appearance among the passengers. The night following was black and
stormy, and we had reason to anticipate an Archipelago gale:
fortunately, however, it cleared up, much to the satisfaction of the
captain and myself; for never did a boat traverse these seas with less
of the seaman in the composition of its crew, from the said captain down
to the slop-boy.

[Sidenote: QUARANTINE.] _Monday, July 1st._--The Island of Tinos was in
sight at daylight this morning; and, passing through the channel between
it and Andros, we approached Syra, the quarantine station of the new
Greek kingdom for all vessels coming from Smyrna or the plague
countries. The situation of Syra is very beautiful; the houses rising
gradually in a succession of terraces, built