g _pratique_ that night; and we had to endure
the mortification of hearing the hum of enjoyment arising from every
part of this gay city, without the possibility of being partakers in the
amusement going forward. The marina was well illuminated, and the
distant sound of music, which ever and anon came softened over the
waves, communicated an air of enchantment to the scene.

[Sidenote: PALERMO.] _Sunday, 4th._--We landed in Palermo at daylight;
and I established myself in the same hotel where, two years before, I
had spent a pleasant fortnight. Here it is that an Italian summer may be
truly enjoyed; for pleasure would seem to be the presiding deity of the
place. The inhabitants spend the whole night in driving about, eating
delicious ices, listening to music, or in wandering among the orange and
lemon groves situated in and about the town.

"This is the land where the lemon trees bloom;
Where the dark orange glows in the deep thicket's gloom,
Where a wind ever soft from the kind Heaven blows,
And the groves are of myrtle, and laurel, and rose."

[Sidenote: DUCHESS DE BERRI.] After visiting every object of curiosity
in Palermo, I surrendered myself to that pleasing indolence in which
every one appears more or less to indulge. Nevertheless, I could not
resist the temptation of making an excursion to Prince Butera's villa,
in order to catch a glimpse of her who had soared so high and sunk so
low.[22] She came to the window while we were in the garden; and a
Carlist, who formed one of our party, seemed to gaze at her as though
she had been a deity. A dispute having arisen about some trivial
circumstance, she stormed with rage, and her gesticulations were
perfectly furious. She is a perfect Neapolitan.

As this illustrious lady had expressed a desire to go to Naples, we were
requested to agree to a delay of a few days. Who could resist the
temptations of a longer sojourn in the city of the syren pleasure? and
it was readily agreed to. It was not, therefore, until the morning of--

[Sidenote: SCENE ON BOARD.] _Friday, 9th_--that we bade adieu to Sicily.
The Duchess came on board with her husband and suite, Count Menars, and
the Prince and Princess----. Her face is by no means a handsome one; and
she is very short, thin, and vulgar-looking. Nothing in her personal
appearance marks her out for a heroine, or is calculated to inspire her
followers with the awe and respect with which they seem to worship her.
She s