hmaks, and conversing for some time with us,
through Tongo's brother, who performed the office of interpreter. They
made various inquiries respecting our nation--why we had come to
Stamboul?--how long we intended to remain? And then came that question,
at once so natural and delightful to a pretty woman, "Did we think them
handsome?" To this home-thrust at our gallantry, we of course made a
suitable reply; which, unlike such answers in general, was strictly
consistent with truth, for they were really beautiful, though the
artificial junction of their painted eyebrows, and their stained nails,
by no means heightened the effects of their natural charms. Our
compliments appeared to amuse them exceedingly, for they laughed and
chattered to each other with a vivacity not surpassed by the most
accomplished gossips of any country, and which formed a perfect contrast
to their affected sober demeanour. Just as they were beginning to be
delightfully familiar, and had presented us with some delicious ices,
two or three old Turks hove in sight. In an instant, every dimpling
smile vanished; their countenances were again enshrouded in the odious
linen masks; their ample veils dropt around them, and making a hasty
sign for us to depart, our talkative and merry friends were again as
demure and discreet, as any "magnificent three-tailed bashaw" in the
empire could possibly have desired.

This was my farewell excursion to the Keathane, for I had no
opportunity of visiting it afterwards; but the happy moments I passed
there, will ever be among the most delightful recollections of my visit
to the East.

[Sidenote: THE SERASKIER.] _Monday, 10th._--To day I took upon myself
the duties of a cicerone, and volunteered to pioneer the uninitiated,
and show them the wonders of Stamboul. The first place we visited was
the arm bazaar, with the others in succession; and when they closed, we
went to the Seraskier's tower. As we were coming away, the pilot of the
Actaeon joined us, and we climbed up the circular stair a second time. In
descending, the cavash who had conducted us, observed, that he thought
he had hit upon the means of getting admitted into St. Sophia. As he
addressed himself to me, I promised to give him 100 piastres if I could
accomplish it; and after consulting his brother cavashes, he returned,
saying, it would only be necessary to ask permission of the Seraskier.
Ask the Seraskier! beard the lion in his den! Who would undertake to