ice. At that
time, too, the wealthy Christian, in passing through the streets of
Stamboul, was often stopped and compelled to sweep the muddy crossing;
and even the dogs were allowed to worry him, without his daring to beat
them off. Happily those days of fanatical intolerance are for ever
passed; and the irresistible march of civilisation, by gradually
weakening his prejudices, has humanised even the intolerant and
ferocious Mussulman.[12]

[Sidenote: CASHMERE SHAWLS.] _Thursday, 30th._--To-day a man brought for
sale a quantity of Persian silk, which was very soft and beautiful, and
the colours were bright and well arranged; he had also some black
Cashmere shawls with variegated borders: though the patterns looked
handsome, they were of inferior qualities, and not to be compared with
the French and Scotch imitations. Not being inclined to purchase any, I
posted off to the khan, where the Angora shalee is sold, and saw some
beautiful specimens of this soft and warm manufacture, whose fine silky
texture renders it a great object of commerce for ladies' dresses: the
price is about 300 piastres for eight pics, which is the requisite
quantity.

[Sidenote: TURKISH BATH.] I returned to Pera to take the hummum or bath,
the one there being very clean, quiet, and well managed. A narrow
platform, raised about three feet from the ground, and covered with
cushions, runs round the whole of the first chamber, which is lighted
from above by a glazed cupola; and a fountain of clear water playing
continually in the centre, spreads a delicious coolness throughout. As
soon as we had mounted the stage, one of the bath-men offered carpets
and cushions, but my companion refused them, for the plague is often
communicated by using these _pro bono publico_ comforts; and a Perote
lives in constant dread of this terrible malady. After undressing, we
hung our clothes on pegs, and covered ourselves with a linen towel,
devoted to that laudable purpose, and which, if neglected in the
slightest degree, calls forth the most energetic remonstrances from the
old Turk, who sits smoking near the fountain.

The wooden pattens or slippers used by the bathers were arranged on the
steps by which we mounted the stage, and I had several narrow escapes
from being prostrated on the marble pavement ere I reached the small
door leading into the hummum; so difficult do the uninitiated find the
use of these wooden bridges, which are clumsy, heavy, and slippery as