uty I saw nothing, saving now and then a green and
cultivated valley, which are indeed "few, and far between." The cliffs
appeared to be composed of a coarse and soft sandstone, nearly white,
resembling chalk at a distance. We came to anchor a few miles above the
castles, with the consolation that the north wind, now set in, might
perhaps continue to blow for weeks. Contrary to our expectations,
however, the breeze having veered to the southward in the course of the
day, we weighed, and advanced a short distance up the channel; but the
wind again dying away, the current bore us back, and we anchored in our
former position.

There are now seventy of the crew on the sick list, including the first
and third lieutenant, the master, and several of the youngsters, all
like myself, suffering from the influenza. The sailors have christened
it the Dardanelles fever; and the men who are well, swear the others
sham illness, in order to escape the working through the Hellespont.
Should the captain get impatient and resolve to beat up, there will be
no end to the tacking, and the orders, "Her helm's a lee, and mainsail
haul," will be sufficiently imprinted on my memory.

[Sidenote: PRESENT TO THE AMBASSADOR.] _Monday, 29th._--Heavy rain all
day, accompanied by cold, and a strong gale. In the evening it cleared
up, and I went on shore for a short time. On either side of the channel
were a great number of vessels, waiting for the southerly wind to carry
them up to Constantinople; and now, with their sails out to dry, they
presented the singular appearance of a fleet in full sail--without
advancing. A small cutter, which serves as a packet between Smyrna and
Stamboul, worked by us before dark; she was crowded with passengers,
among whom were several ladies. The news she brought was of no great
importance, saving the certainty that the French fleet, consisting of
four sail of the line and two frigates, had arrived at Vourla. A present
of two sheep, with some poultry and vegetables, arrived from the Pasha
at the Upper Castles, for the ambassador; which looked as if the knowing
ones on shore, expected we should keep our present berth for some time.

[Sidenote: FEAST OF THE BAIRAM.] _Tuesday, April 30th._--At daylight
this morning, we were all attracted on deck by the loud report of
cannon, which came booming down the Hellespont, announcing the
commencement of the Bairam, or grand religious festival of the Turks,
when they play the same