rd in one form or another,
_Bolghar, Borghali_, or _Bulkal_, is the term applied to that material to
this day nearly all over Asia. Ibn Batuta says that in travelling during
winter from Constantinople to the Wolga he had to put on three pairs of
boots, one of wool (which we should call stockings), a second of wadded
linen, and a third of _Borghali_, "i.e. of horse-leather lined with
wolf-skin." Horse-leather seems to be still the favourite material for
boots among all the Tartar nations. The name was undoubtedly taken from
_Bolghar_ on the Wolga, the people of which are traditionally said to have
invented the art of preparing skins in that manner. This manufacture is
still one of the staple trades of Kazan, the city which in position and
importance is the nearest representative of Bolghar now.
_Camut_ is explained by Klaproth to be "leather made from the back-skin of
a camel." It appears in Johnson's Persian Dictionary as _Kamu_, but I do
not know from what language it originally comes. The word is in the Latin
column of the Petrarchian Vocabulary with the Persian rendering _Sagri_.
This shows us what is meant, for _Saghri_ is just our word _Shagreen_, and
is applied to a fine leather granulated in that way, which is much used
for boots and the like by the people of Central Asia. [In Turkish _saghri_
or _saghri_ is the name both for the buttocks of a horse and the leather
called _shagreen_ prepared with them. (See _Devic, Dict. Etym._)--H. C.]
In the commercial lists of our Indian north-west frontier we find as
synonymous _Saghri_ or _Kimukht_, "Horse or Ass-hide." No doubt this
latter word is a form of _Kamu_ or _Camut_. It appears (as _Keimukht_, "a
sort of leather") in a detail of imports to Aden given by _Ibn al Wardi_,
a geographer of the 13th century.
Instead of Camut, Ramusio has _Camoscia_, i.e. Chamois, and the same seems
to be in all the editions based on Fra Pipino's version. It may be a
misrendering of _camutum_ or _camutium_; or is there any real connexion
between the Oriental _Kamu Kimukht_, and the Italian _camoscia_? (_I. B._
II. 445; _Klapr. Mem._ vol. III.; _Davies's Trade Report_, App. p. ccxx.;
_Vambery's Travels_, 423; _Not. et Ext._ II. 43.)
Fraehn (writing in 1832) observes that he knew no use of the word
_Bolghar_, in the sense of Russian leather, older than the 17th century.
But we see that both Marco and Ibn Batuta use it. (_F. on the Wolga
Bulghars_, pp. 8-9.)
Pauthier in a note (p. 285
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