nerally hollowed out of tree-trunks, and larger boats of a more solid
construction.

The population was entirely composed of a mixture of Spanish and Indian
types and of pure Indians. Some of the latter had Mongolian
characteristics; others were more of the Malay and Papuan types.

After the first day or two the voyage on the launch was tedious. One got
tired of the endless conversation and of listening to the bargaining. The
perpetual drinking which had to be witnessed was of little interest to a
teetotaller. One seldom saw money change hands, all being done by barter,
the merchandise we had on board being exchanged chiefly for rubber. Even
so far up the river civilization had well set in, and great caution was
needed in buying balls of rubber. It was advisable to split them in two
before purchase, as they generally contained all kinds of rubbish instead
of pure coagulated latex.

After Brazil, however, the villages and houses of Peru looked clean and
neat.

The prices of food were somewhat high, chickens fetching 4_s._ each,
whereas in Iquitos they fetched from 8_s._ to 10_s._; eggs sold for 6_d._
each, and were generally bad, the good ones being eaten by the people
themselves.

We went up the Tapiche River, a tributary on the right bank, and visited
the estate newly bought by an American company. In fact, we were there at
midnight of December 31st, and drank in the New Year with Mr. Anzelius,
the director, and his Polish and Italian assistants.

On January 2nd, 1912, we saw a great many Indians along the banks of the
river, who ran away when they saw the camera pointed at them.

The people on that river were fond of giving high-sounding names to their
houses. We passed a place called Philadelphia, where a large farm with
lean cattle, ducks and fowls, could be seen, looking as miserable as
possible; also plenty of banana palms and sugar-cane.

Some way off, after passing the large saw-mills of Cumaseba and Tamanco,
where an interesting collection of animals and Indian weapons had been
made by the proprietor, we came in the evening to the farm of Buenos
Aires.

[Illustration: The Oroya Railway.

(A great spring emerging from the mountain-side.)]

[Illustration: Beautiful Scenery on the Peruvian Corporation
Railway to Cuzco, Peru.]

Early on January 3rd we passed San Roque, and then Condorcanqui, a
fine plantation of bananas along the river bank, and also a plantation of
_yuta_ (jute) and some bread trees