illing for each mule, the
price being higher at the Yessup end of the journey and getting gradually
lower as one got nearer the capital.

Of course one could not call travelling over the Andes in any way
luxurious. The tablecloths at the _tambos_ showed all round the table the
marks of the dirty lips of previous travellers, and plentiful stains of
soup, coffee and tea. The illumination consisted usually of a candle
placed in the mouth of a bottle, which was used as a candlestick.

I saw more Campas Indians there. They were singing songs strongly
resembling Malay melodies, to the accompaniment of Spanish guitars. Other
songs influenced by Spanish airs, but still delivered in a typically
Malay fashion, were also given that evening. They interested me greatly.

[Illustration: Inca Three-Walled Fortress of Sacsayhuaman, Cuzco.]

On January 22nd we left Camp 93. I was struck everywhere at those
_tambos_ by the great honesty of the Peruvians. I was often touched by
the extreme kindness of the people and their considerate manner--although
perhaps it was more particularly striking to me after my experience of
the brutal behaviour of the lower-class Brazilians. The gentle way of
speaking, the more harmonious language--Spanish instead of
Portuguese--and the charming civility of the people, made travelling,
even under those unpleasant circumstances, quite agreeable.

It was cold, especially at night. Nearly all my instruments had been
badly damaged in our many accidents in Brazil, and I was unable to
replace them either in Para or Manaos. Owing, therefore, to the lack of
self-registering thermometers, I could not keep an accurate daily record
of the maximum and minimum temperatures. After leaving Camp 93, we went
over a really fearful trail, my mules being all the time chest-deep in
mud. It was extremely hard work for the animals to get along. As is well
known to any traveller, all animals of a caravan when on a narrow path
step in the footprints of their predecessors, so that on that trail they
had sunk a long series of deep holes in the soft clay, which were
constantly being filled by water sliding from the mountain-side. In that
particular part the mud had highly caustic qualities, which burnt the
skin and caused irritation each time you were splashed. The muleteers who
were walking had their feet badly burnt by it, one man suffering agony
from his blistered feet.

Magnificent mountain scenery covered with luxuriant forest