,
with representations of heads attached to them. The average length of
these articles was from two to four inches.
I left the city on Friday, February 16th, going back the way I had come
as far as the junction of Juliaca.
The Cuzco railway, to my mind, crosses the most beautiful and most
interesting scenery of any railway I have ever seen. It is a pity that
more English people do not travel by it. The great elevation makes people
suffer from mountain-sickness, and that perhaps deters many travellers
from attempting the journey. The railway has to contend with great
natural difficulties--land-slides, which often stop traffic for days at a
time, being frequent.
From Cuzco I went direct to Lake Titicaca, where more Inca ruins, such as
the cylindrical towers of Sillistayni, existed at Puno. Lake Titicaca is
a heavenly sheet of water, situated at an elevation by hypsometrical
apparatus of 12,202 ft. With its magnificent background of snowy peaks,
the lake looked indeed too impressive for words, as I steamed across it
in the excellent steamer of the Peruvian Corporation.
Early in the morning of February 17th, having travelled the entire night
in order to cross the lake from north to south, we arrived at Guaqui, the
port for La Paz, the capital of Bolivia. Although I travelled in the most
luxurious comfort, owing to the kindness of the Peruvian Corporation, the
journey by rail and the going about examining the ruins at Cuzco had
tired me considerably. My brain was so exhausted that it would really
take in no more.
Worse luck, when I reached La Paz it was during carnival time, when it
was impossible to go out of the hotel without being smothered in
cornflour or chalk, and sprinkled with aniline dyed water. Even bottles
of ink were emptied on one's head from the windows. So that, although I
crossed Bolivia from one end to the other in its longest part, I was
unable to do any further work. I tried to get down to the coast as
quickly as possible in order to return home.
La Paz was a beautiful city, extremely neat, with bright red-tiled roofs
and white buildings. It was situated in a deep hollow surrounded by a
great barrier of mountains. So deep and sudden was the hollow that within
a few metres of its upper edge one would never suppose a town to be at
hand. Bolivia is a go-ahead country in which English people are greatly
interested. We have in our Minister there, Mr. Gosling, a very able
representative of British i
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