ft. above the water. In two or
three places where it had been cut into the rock it was most dangerous,
as the rocks were slippery with the wet, so that the mules had great
difficulty in keeping their feet. The vegetation was wonderful, with
trees of enormous height and beautiful giant palms. Waterfalls over rocky
walls were plentiful, while the effects of clouds were marvellous among
those mountains--although my enthusiasm was damped a good deal that day
by the torrential rain, which came down in bucketfuls upon us, and
filtered through even my heavy waterproof coat.

The zigzag ascent was extremely heavy, the first part being over rocky
ground, while the rest of that day's journey was along a swampy trail on
which the mules stumbled and fell many times. One of my men had a narrow
escape from being precipitated down the chasm. So bad, indeed, was the
trail that we only went 15 kil., halting at the _tambo_ of Pampas S.
Nicolas.

On January 21st we made a long and tedious march, rising all the time
among slippery rocks along precipices, or sinking in swampy mud on the
narrow trail. Picturesque waterfalls of great height were visible in
volcanic vents, some square, others crescent-shaped, on the face of the
mountain. The torrents, swollen by the heavy rains, were difficult to
cross, my mules on several occasions being nearly swept away by the
foaming current. We sank in deep red slush and in deep holes filled with
water, but continued all the time to ascend a gentle but continuous
incline. We travelled that day from six o'clock in the morning until six
o'clock in the evening, rain pouring down upon us all the time. We were
simply smothered in mud from head to foot.

We found a large _tambo_ at Camp 93, with a telephone and telegraph
station. At those _tambos_ it was always possible to obtain rice,
chickens and eggs at reasonable prices, fixed by the Government. In many
of the _tambos_ were also rough wooden bedsteads, with a more or less
comfortable mattress. I generally preferred to use my own camp-bed. As
there were never more than one or two rooms in the _tambo_, you had to
sleep in the same room with other people, unless you preferred to sleep
outside, as I did.

For the privilege of sleeping at any _tambo_, in or out of doors, one
paid the small sum of one shilling. A dinner or lunch seldom cost more
than two shillings, and breakfast eightpence to one shilling. The food
for the animals could be reckoned at one sh