landscape. In the train everybody suffered from
_soroche_ or mountain-sickness, which attacked most people when brought
up quickly by the railway from the sea to such high elevations. I was
driven away from the front of the engine by the cold rain and sleet
beating with great force into my face, and obscuring the landscape to
such an extent that I could see nothing at all.

When it cleared up we were travelling in a region of marshes and pools in
the lowest point of depressions, then along a magnificent lake with green
and brown fantastically-shaped mountains and hills in the foreground, and
a high snowy range in the background. The effects of light when the storm
was raging over the lake, with its conical and semi-spherical islands
dotting the water, were intensely picturesque.

After that the plateau became less interesting. We descended gradually
some 400 m. (1,312 ft.) to the junction of Juliaca, 3,825 m. (12,550 ft.)
above the sea level.

At that place the luxurious car which had taken me there had to be
switched off from the Puno Line to the Cuzco Line.

I had dinner in the hotel, and again was impressed by the great honesty
of the Peruvian people in the interior, and their considerate manners. It
was somewhat curious to see the Indian waiter--most clumsy, dressed up in
uncomfortable and ill-fitting European clothes--waiting on a medley of
strange passengers, such as red-faced Spanish priests, tidy, smooth,
oily-haired Peruvians, and talkative commercial travellers. But
all--whether fat or lean, rich or poor, Indian or Peruvian--were the
essence of politeness and thoughtfulness.

Being able to sleep in the luxurious car, where I had two good bedrooms,
my own kitchen, and a sitting-room, I was indeed extremely comfortable.

I left again on February 10th over a great flat grassy tableland, with
hills terraced up for cultivation. We passed an old church with a
wonderful dome, and behind it snow-capped blue mountains.

The women wore peculiar hats with flapping edges in order to protect
their faces from the wind. A black cloth was generally worn over the
women's heads under the hat, while over their shoulders hung dark green
or purple _ponchos_.

The Indians of that region showed remarkably strong Malay features.

The train steamed through the wide grassy valley, once crossing a fairly
large stream. High snowy peaks loomed against the sky on our right, while
we were travelling all the time at elevations vary