people, and the
settlers in the neighbourhood are much afraid of them.

On January 13th, when we were three days out from Masisea, we were
travelling between high rocky hills with almost vertical sides. Their
section showed in the lower portion narrow bands of violet-coloured rock
and white light stone in a horizontal stratum. Above that had accumulated
a deep layer from 30 to 100 ft. thick of red earth.

We went across a dangerous whirlpool. The launch hardly had enough
strength to pull through at full speed. The water all around us formed
great circles with deep central hollows, and, as we went through, rose
before us like a wall. It had quite an impressive effect. That particular
whirlpool was called Sheboya. Soon afterwards we obtained a beautiful
view of the high range--the Sira mountains.

[Illustration: Wonderful Example of Old Spanish Wood-Carving, Peru.]

On January 14th we went over the whirlpool of Marques, a most picturesque
sight. On the banks of the river was plenty of rubber, _hevea_, but not
of quite such good quality as that found in Brazil. Some of the trees
exuded white and some yellow latex, the coloration being probably due to
the quality of the soil. There were few habitations along the banks of
the Pachitea River. There were tribes of the Campas (or Antis) and
Cashibos Indians, the members of both races having marked Malay
characteristics. Occasionally one met extraordinary people in those
out-of-the-way regions. When we halted for wood, which we used instead of
coal for our engine, a man some six feet four inches in height came on
board--quite an extraordinary-looking person. To my amazement, when I
spoke to him, he turned out to be a man of refined taste and quite highly
educated. He was a Hungarian count and an officer in the Austrian army,
who, having got into trouble in his own country, had gone to settle
there.

From a place called Cahaubanas, at the confluence of the river Pichis
with the Pachitea, it was possible to cross over on foot to the Mayro, a
stream which flowed into the Palcazu, and in two more days' walking
(about 75 kil.), the German colony of Potzuzu could be reached at the
meeting-place of the Potzuzu River with the Uancabamba. From the German
colony 158 kil. more would bring you to Uanuco, and 138 kil. farther on
was Serra de Pasco, whence the railway went to Lima.

Another trail from Cahaubanas proceeded to Chuchura, about 50 kil. higher
up the Mayro river. From there