epublic. It is
undoubtedly the key to the great Amazon River, although it is not
actually at the mouth of the Amazon, but 138 kil. from the ocean. Through
it is bound to pass the trade not only of that riverine portion of
Brazil, but also of Peru and Bolivia.

[Illustration: Campas Old Woman and her Son.]

Belem (Para) is mostly known to Europeans as the nest of yellow fever.
During the last few years it has been freed absolutely from that scourge,
the cases of yellow fever being now few and far between, owing to the
wonderful progress made by hygiene and the praiseworthy efforts made by
the Province to keep the city in a healthy condition.

The population of Para is 192,230 inhabitants. Many spacious and handsome
edifices, such as the Government buildings and the professional
Institutes, do great credit to the city; while the Peace Theatre is one
of the finest in Brazil. Many private mansions are of some architectural
beauty, and some of the new avenues and the municipal gardens are
handsome. The slaughter-house, the iron market, etc., are quite up to
date, and the city even boasts of a crematorium.

My object in coming to Belem (Para) was merely to see my men safely on
board on their return to the Minas Geraes and Goyaz Provinces; also to
buy some new cameras and instruments, so that I could start on the second
part of my expedition, following the entire course of the Amazon almost
up to its source, then cross over the Andes and reach the Pacific Ocean.

My English friends in Para tried to dissuade me from attempting the
journey, as I was in a pitiful condition. What was worse, civilization,
instead of making me feel better, was smashing me up altogether. Every
day I was getting weaker and weaker, and more exhausted. I had hardly
strength to walk about, less still to go up or down stairs. Beri-beri
commenced to develop in my right foot, and added to my other trials.

The English consul told me it was absolute folly to try and proceed on
such a long journey in such an exhausted state.

Having bought fresh clothes and cameras for my new expedition, I left
Para on November 12th at noon on the excellent ship _Anthony_ of the
Booth line, on my way up the Amazon to Manaos.

I will not attempt here to give a description of that amazing river the
Amazon--amazing because it is very big and not because it is beautiful,
for indeed I do not believe that in all my travels I have ever seen a
river quite so ugly and unintere