d found it impossible at Manaos to charter a steam launch.

I spread out before the Governor a map of South America, showing the
journey I had taken from Rio de Janeiro to Manaos marked in red. The
Governor, who had evidently never seen a map before, turned it upside
down, mistook the entire map of South America for a map of his own
Province, and seemed to be under the impression that the Amazon had its
birth close to Rio de Janeiro.

A bitter enemy of all foreigners, especially Englishmen, the Governor was
detested by everybody, and was at open war with the Commandante of the
Federal troops in the town. All the money which should have been spent in
embellishing or improving the town, was mis-spent in keeping a large army
of police--over 2,000 men, I believe--for his personal protection.

My audience with the Governor did not last long, and I paid him back in
his own coin. He immediately turned round then, with great courtesy
begging me to stay and talk matters over, and said that he would be
delighted to be of use to me in showing me around the city. I merely
turned my back upon him, as I would on any nonentity, and limped out of
the palace. Several messages were sent to me afterwards, which I treated
with the contempt they deserved.

As nearly all the launches in the place belonged to the Government, I had
then to apply to the Commandante of the flotilla of the Government boats.
It will be easily understood that my anxiety was great to go and rescue
my men; so that on leaving the palace I immediately proceeded to the
private house of this gentleman--a great friend of the Governor, I
learned afterwards. On sending in my card at five o'clock in the
afternoon I was kept waiting a little time, then there appeared a
yellow-faced individual in his pyjamas, muttering words which I should
not like to repeat.

"What do you want?" he said to me. "Do you not know that I sleep from
twelve to six every afternoon? What do you mean by disturbing me? I am
sure you would not disturb officers of your own Navy in this way!"

I very politely answered that the officers of my Navy were well known for
being wide awake at all times, and not for sleeping the whole day as well
as the entire night. When I explained to him, and presented the order
from the Minister of Marine requesting any officer of the Brazilian Navy
to give every possible assistance, he told me that none of his boats
were in a condition to move out; furthermore they were