efly candle-sticks, censers and toys. Much weaving of palm
is here done, and the hats of the place are rather famous. Famous,
too, are the _mantas_, or women's dresses, of black wool, made in long
rectangular pieces. The common grade sells for $6.00, and in using it,
it is, like indian dresses generally, simply wrapped about the figure
and held in place by a sash or belt.

Nowhere in our journey in southern Mexico had we met with the kind of
scenery which we encountered between Magdalena and Tlaxiaco; its whole
character was like that of New Mexico. Directly behind the town was
a fine cart-road, worn in red sand pumice; before the town rose a
magnificent cliff, which had been a landmark in our journey of the day
before. The road running up the mountain, over gray and red pumice
strata, was deeply worn, just like the road back of Cochiti, New Mexico.
Here, too, were the same noble pines for forest. It was a full hour's
climb to the summit, where we found a pretty brook tumbling over ledge
after ledge into deep round basins of purest water. A long and rather
gentle slope downward led to a valley filled with neat farm-houses and
cleared patches. Our last ascent brought us to a mass of rounded hills,
composed of brilliant clays--yellow, brown, pink, red and white. From
among these hillocks Tlaxiaco, a magnificent picture, burst into view.
It is compactly built; the flat-topped houses are white or blue-tinted;
trees are sprinkled through the town; the old convent, with the two
towers of its church, dominates the whole place; a pretty stream flows
along its border; and a magnificent range of encircling mountains hems
it in on all sides. The descent was rapid, and we reached Tlaxiaco with
the morning but half gone.

[Illustration: MIXTEC HOUSES WITH BEEHIVES; SAN BARTOLO]

The _jefes_ of the districts of Mexico are frequently men of ability and
force. Rarely, however, have we encountered one so prompt and energetic
as Javier Cordova, then _jefe_ of the district of Tlaxiaco. When he took
possession of this district, not long before, deeds of robbery along
the high-road were common. In many portions of the district, acts of
violence were quite the rule. Perhaps the largest agricultural district
in the Republic, it possessed few of the conveniences of modern life.
Under Cordova's administration, vast improvements have been made. The
roads are secure, deeds of violence are rare, the advantages of the
district are being rapidly d