eveloped, telephone and telegraph have been
introduced, and a railroad is talked of. Although we had no letter
from the governor addressed to Senor Cordova, when we showed him the
communications for other _jefes_, we were received with the greatest
courtesy and everything was done to facilitate our work. We told him
that we planned to visit the Triquis at Chicahuastla. He at once wrote
letters to the town authorities and to Don Guillermo Murcio, living at
that village. The plaster for our bust-making had not yet been received,
but Senor Cordova promised, in case it came, to forward it after us
promptly, and, in case it did not come, to send twenty miles into the
mountains for the raw plaster, which he would have prepared and sent on
to Chicahuastla. It was late in the afternoon, before we started for
Cuquila, where we planned to pass the night. It was a mistake to make so
late a start. For a time, the road was fairly level, but at last we went
up a brisk ascent, reaching the summit near sunset. The road down would
have been a bad one, even in the daytime. As it was, if we had not had a
good moon, we could hardly have made the descent. From the depth of the
canon we ascended to Cuquila, thoroughly tired, somewhat before seven.
It was with the greatest difficulty that we could find anyone of whom to
ask our way to the town-house. Our voices were sufficient to plunge any
house into instant darkness and silence. After a long search, we found
a man who agreed to seek the _presidente_. He and the rest of the town
officials finally met us on the road, and, after reading our order, took
us to the town-house. It was with difficulty that we got fodder for our
horses. It was only after persistent and dire threats, that we secured
food for ourselves, and firewood to make the room, in which we were to
sleep, endurable. It was long past eleven before we were through our
troubles and lay down on mats to sleep.

Though we had warned the town officials that we should leave at seven,
and must have breakfast before we left, when we arose, we found no steps
whatever taken for our accommodation. Yet the town officials had been
up long enough to be thoroughly affected by their early morning drinks.
Feeling that patience had ceased to be a virtue, we summoned the
authorities, and told the _presidente_ that he had paid no attention
whatever to his _jefe's_ order; that we had had far too much difficulty
in securing the bad accommodations we had