described. As we rode through the
higher forests, we constantly heard birds, notable among which were the
_clarins_, with their fine clear notes. It was dark before we reached
Camotlan. Nowhere had we been better treated. We were shown at once into
a clean room, and were soon surrounded by bustle and preparation for our
comfort. There are but 143 inhabitants, of whom six--four men and two
women--have goitres. We had been previously informed that the whole town
was goitrous. There were three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the town.
Inquiring for books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that
the choir-master had one. On expressing my desire to see it, they sent
to bring him. We were astonished at his appearance. The messengers who
brought him carried him in their arms, and set him down upon the floor,
when we saw that he had been born without legs, and with sadly deformed
arms and hands. Yet, when once placed upon the floor, he moved about
easily, and had a cheery face and sunny temper. He was delighted to show
us his book and took the greatest pride in reading from it. It is truly
remarkable that he can do this. The book was written in the dialect of
Juquila of more than 170 years ago. The dialect of Juquila was no doubt
then different from that of Camotlan, and during the 170 years there
have been great changes, even in that town itself. As I watched the
man read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts of words
differently from the way in which they were spelled; how he had worked
out for himself, unaided, the proper meaning and purport of the words
was a mystery. I had intended to purchase the book, but found him so
attached to it that I gave up the plan. Had he been a normal man, I
should have insisted; but then, if he had been a normal man, he would
not have had the book nor known how to read it.

From Camotlan we rode steadily for five hours to reach Ixcuintepec.
There were considerable stretches of slippery road to be passed. The two
gorge rides, the bridges of vines, and the houses along the way, were
beautiful as ever, but the magnificent mountain forests were left
entirely behind us. The old church at Ixcuintepec is visible on the high
crest for a considerable distance. As we made the final climb, the boys
noticed in the trees structures one and a half feet or two feet in
diameter, and somewhat dome-shaped. I should have taken them for wasps'
nests, but the party insisted that they saw parrots