The name Tehuantepec means the mountain of man-eaters. These man-eaters
were not men, but tigers, or ocelots. The story runs that long ago this
mountain was infested with wild beasts who destroyed the people of the
neighboring villages. Fearing extermination, the people of the town
decided to consult the Juaves, who were famous for their _naguales_, or
witches. The oldest and most skilled _nagual_ of the tribe was employed.
Having performed his incantations, he told them they might expect
immediate deliverance; that he had conjured a deliverer from the sea.
Soon there came forth from the water a gigantic turtle, who made his way
slowly inland, until he reached the bottom of the hill, which was the
home of the tigers. The dangerous animals were just descending from
the mountain in a double line, but the moment they caught sight of the
mammoth sea-monster, their bodies froze with terror and they were turned
to stone. Terrified at the power of the creature he had conjured, the
old _nagual_ quickly made use of his most powerful incantation, with the
result that the turtle also was transformed into stone. The proof of the
truth of the story we saw in the lines of stone tigers on the mountain
side and the stone turtle at the foot of the hill, as we rode by.

The doctor suggested that it would be well to take a guide with us from
San Blas as far as Huilotepec, as there were many side-roads before
we reached that town, and that, from there, we would need no help. We
followed his suggestion. The road was almost level. It passed through a
district covered with a dense growth of brush and thorny trees, except
where the land had been plowed for planting corn. In the early evening
we saw many birds. Flocks of parrots rose from the trees as we passed
by; at one point Manuel shot a little eagle, which fell wounded to the
ground. Our guide concluded to carry it on alive. All went well for some
time, but at last, with no warning, the bird made a vicious dash, and
with its claws tore through the trousers of the guide, making a great
gash in his leg. The man promptly decided it was better, on the whole,
to carry it further dead than living.

The doctor turned back at sunset. We reached Huilotepec something before
eight, and found it a large pueblo with houses built of bamboo or cane.
Here we had a good supper, and dismissing our guide started out, by
brilliant moonlight, for the last part of our journey. Shortly beyond
the town, the ro