e already referred to the beautiful location of Chicahuastla. Its
appearance is most picturesque. Unlike the indian towns in the Mixteca
which we had so far visited, it has many houses of circular form with
conical roof. It is possible that this style of construction is the
result of African influence. At Chicahuastla we were on the very summit
of the great water-shed, and from it, when the air is clear, one may
look down, over a sea of lesser summits and mountain ranges, to the
waters of the Pacific. Along the Pacific coast, in the state of
Guerrero, are whole towns of Africans, descendants of slaves, who build
their houses after the circular pattern, so common throughout the dark
continent. We did not find in the Triquis any admixture of African
blood, but it is possible the mode of house-building may have been
influenced by negro example.

Our first glimpse of the town suggested a veritable paradise. At eleven
the sky was clear, the sun almost tropical, the whole country smiled
under its warm beams; but at two there came a change. Fogs, so dense as
to shut out the view of what was across the road, drifted down from the
summit on which we had seen cloud masses forming. Deeper and deeper,
wetter and wetter, colder and colder grew the mist. All, wrapped in
their thickest blankets, were shivering, crouched upon the ground,
trying in vain to keep themselves warm. At first we thought this might
be a rare occasion, but were assured that it is an every-day occurrence,
and from our own experience of four or five days, we can easily believe
the statement to be true. How any people can live in such a spot,
suffering keenly twenty hours in the day, simply for the four hours of
clear sunshine and warmth is inexplicable; and the nights were torments!
Don Guillermo's house is well built of logs and plaster, but no house
could keep out that bitter cold night air which chilled us, as we lay in
bed, until we could hardly move.

[Illustration: DON GUILLERMO AND HIS FAMILY; CHICAHUASTLA]

[Illustration: GROUP OF TRIQUIS; CHICAHUASTLA]

We have already stated that the people of Chicahuastla are conservative
and superstitious. Our operations of measuring, photographing and
bust-making filled the town with alarm and concern. It was hard enough
to get our male subjects; the women were yet more difficult. At first
we failed to secure any, but after we had several times told the town
officials that twenty-five women must be forthcoming for