re scattered, here and there, along the road. After
another descent and ascent, we found ourselves in an extensive forest of
great gnarled oaks, thickly covered with tufts of air-plants and with
orchids. Many of the latter were in full bloom, forming masses of
brilliant color. In making the descent from here, we found the slope
composed of slippery limestone, with sharp, rain-channeled surfaces,
where our horses with great difficulty kept their footing. Soon after we
were down, we reached San Bartolo.

This purely Mixtec town was a delightful spot. It is large, and strung
along two or three long straight streets.

[Illustration: THE PEOPLE RECEIVING THEIR PADRE; TILANTONGO]

The houses were in yards completely filled with fruit
trees--_chirimoyas, limas, granadas de China, ahuacates_ and oranges.
Garden-beds of spinach, lettuce, and onions were frequent. The houses
were of poles set upright, with thick thatchings of palms. Bee-hives in
quantity were seen at almost every house. At Tilantongo we had seen but
few women in native dress. Here almost every woman was clad in native
garments, many of which were beautifully decorated. The men wore
brilliant sashes, woven in the town. When we reached the town-house we
found the doorway decorated with flowers,--stars and rosettes made of
palm. We were well received, and a capital dinner was soon served, after
which we were escorted around the town by the authorities, who arranged
for photographing everything that seemed to us of interest. But, at
three o'clock, we left this pretty spot. Again, we climbed much of the
way over limestone roads. Santo Domingo, past which we journeyed, is a
mean little town, with houses much like those of Tilantongo, but of a
gray color instead of reddish-brown. From here we plunged downward, and
when we ascended again, followed along the side of a rock-walled canon
with pretty cascades and magnificent masses of fallen rock. The last
part of our journey was made by moonlight, along a brook-side over
a road which seemed quite endless. With some trouble, we found the
dilapidated old church and the municipal house; we took possession of
the school, and after a miserable supper, thoroughly tired, lay down to
rest upon the benches.

The town--Magdalena de los Comales--is so named from the _comales_, or
earthenware griddles, made there. Besides this characteristic product,
the town makes a good deal of unglazed but polished red pottery. The
forms are chi