brandy,
which, by neglect of the commissary of the port, was left on the Mole at
Callao, for several months, in the burning heat of the sun: in
consequence its contents were utterly destroyed. A second collection was
prepared, and immediately shipped for Europe, and in the packing the
greatest care was observed. Nevertheless it arrived, after a voyage of
fifteen months, in a state quite useless. Thus the fruits of much labor
and a considerable expense were entirely lost.

Huacho is a little village, which, since the war of Independence, has
received the title of "city." It has more than 5000 inhabitants, of
whom four-fifths are Indians and the rest mestizes. Very few whites
have settled here. Among them I met an old lame Spaniard, "Don Simon,"
who, at the beginning of the present century, accompanied the
celebrated Alexander von Humboldt to the beds of salt situated a few
miles to the south. In relating, with enthusiastic pleasure, his
recollections of the youthful and indefatigable traveller, he told me
that, some years ago, he had read through the book which Humboldt
wrote on America, and he added, with great simplicity, "_pero, Senor,
ahi he perdido los estribos_."[43]

The natives employ themselves in fishing, agriculture, and the
breeding of poultry. Most of the poultry brought to market in Lima
comes from Huacho. Every Friday large caravan-like processions of
Indian women repair to the capital with fowls, ducks, and turkeys.
Fifteen or twenty are tied together by the feet, and make a sort of
bunch; and two of such bunches are hung at the pommel of the saddle,
so that one hangs down on either side of the horse. The chola[44] sits
in the middle. Under this burthen the poor animal has to travel two
days and a half. Only when the caravan halts does he enjoy the relief
of being unsaddled and fed. Some of the Indians of Huacho work in the
salt-pits. The women plait coarse straw hats, and a kind of mats
called _petates_, which they carry to Lima for sale.

The Huachanos cannot be ranked among the best classes of the Indians.
They are malicious, revengeful, and knavish. Their character has
evidently deteriorated amidst the numerous revolutions which preceded
the establishment of the Republic, and the frequent passage of troops
through the town. The Padre Requena sketched to me a terrible picture
of his _Indios brutos_; but truly, under the guidance of such a
shepherd, it were unreasonable to expect the flock to be ver